INFORMATION ON THE LECTURES AND ACTIVITIES
DURING THE TRIBAL JEWELRY & TEXTILES FAIR,
SATURDAY 29th of September.
12.00 uur Jolanda Bos: KOHL CONTAINERS
Jolanda Bos gives a lecture on her new book: "Paint it, Black, a biography or kohl containers
People have been decorating their bodies for thousands of years and all over the world. Of all the possible techniques, decorating the face and eyes is common in all cultures. Both men and women often use kohl, a black powdery substance in various compositions, to decorate the eyes. Kohl is often applied around the eyes as a dark outline. But kohl was not only applied as decoration, it was also used to keep away evil or to accompany ritual festivals. Because of the important role this material has played, it has been stored throughout history in specially made containers. 'Paint it, Black' deals with the remarkable history of kohl containers from the early Bronze Age to the present. Jolanda describes the kohl containers from ancient Egypt, Persia, early Islamic culture and the contemporary cultures of North Africa and West Asia. The book also contains a catalogue of the unique collection of kohl containers in the Wearable Heritage collection.
13.30 uur Hans van der Storm, SECOND LIFE BEADS
A short introduction of the exhibition tob e given at de Duif, second floor of the building.
At the gallery in de Duif a modest exhibition will be presented. Subject is 'Second Life Beads'.
In Africa it is common practice that broken beads are not disposed of, but reshaped in an way that they can be used as fresh beads again. At the fair of 2019 Hans van der Storm will present many examples of this kind of beads, taken out of his own collection.
15.00 uur Gillian Vogelsang, directeur van het Textile Research Centre
2000 YEARS OF EASTERN INFLUENCE ON WESTERN TEXTILES AND DRESS
2000 years of Eastern influence on Western textiles and dress - for thousands of years there has been an exchange of textiles, techniques and ideas between Asia, the Middle East and the West, The lecture by Dr. Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood looks at some of these exchanges and what they meant for Dutch textiles and clothing.
12.00 uur Boukje Mulder, INTRODUCTIE VAN HET MAGAZINE MÉTIER
Métier is an originally designed magazine with quality articles and beautiful photos that focuses on art, design, craft, material and technology. The starting point can be a historical or contemporary perspective, usually it is a combination of both. In addition, it deals with interesting interfaces between the various disciplines. The balance between diverse cultures and their expressions is guaranteed by careful collaboration with international authors and scientists.
12.20 uur, na Boukje Mulder: Sigrid van Roode, Métier
After the introduction by Boukje Mulder, Sigrid van Roode will show the broad scope of Métier on basis of a number of topics that will certainly interest visitors to the exhibition.
13.30 uur Hans van der Storm, SECOND LIFE BEADS
Hans van der Storm, same program as the day before.
15.00 uur Nora Veerman
WAX PRINT FABRICS: IMAGINING AFRICA
In recent years, more and more Western fashion brands, such as the French couture house Dior and the Dutch Afriek, have brought clothing made from colourful wax print fabrics to the market. Waxprint, also known in Africa as ‘le wax’, pagne or kitenge, is considered a symbol of the African continent and African clothing culture in the western world. But how African is this material anyway? In this lecture Nora Veerman (MA Fashion Studies, University of Stockholm) talks about the history of wax print fabrics and demonstrates how these are inextricably linked to local pride and traditions as well as the globalization of culture and economy. In addition, she discusses the effects of the worldwide spread of wax print fabrics on the western image of Africa.
At 'The Tribal Jewelry & Textiles Fair' authentic and quality jewelry of a respectable age will be presented and offered for sale. The ethnic jewelry presented comes from Africa, Asia, the Near-, Middle- and Far East. Also to be seen is an extended and divers collection of traditional textiles from Afghanistan, China and India.
For the interested visitor an impressive collection of (old) books on beads, jewelry and textiles will be offered for sor sale.
Each year we also introduce a few new dealers with ethnic jewelry and textiles.
This special jewelry and textiles fair will be held in the beautiful restored church De Duif, Prinsengracht 756, Amsterdam. An inspiration to stylists, interior-decorators and collectors.
For more information
THE TRIBAL JEWELRY & TEXTILES FAIR
PROGRAMME OF LECTURES
On the 23rd and the 24th of September several lectures will be given during the Fair. These lectures will be presented around 12.00 and 14.00 p.m. on each day and will last for about 20-30 minutes each. In 2016 we presented lectures for the first time during the Fair. The first one was given bij the Director of the Textiles Research Center, Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood and her subject was about modern-day embroideries on large tents in Cairo, Egypt. The second lecture was given by Marianne Tuerlings about the Silk Road and the different textiles that passed through this road.
The 2017 edition of the Tribal Jewelry and Textiles Fair will again see several lectures. The first one will be given by Roos Koch and Hans van de Storm about ancient beads.
Their lecture is called “The Travels of an European Necklace”.
Jolanda Bos will present a lecture on tribal textiles, costumes and jewelry. Sigrid van Roode will present her lecture “A world in Silver”.
About this presentation Sigrid writes:” Traditional jewellery from the Middle-East and North-Africa is not just beautiful to look at but also includes an array of special functions and intentions. A lot of jewellery has a practical day-to-day function as, for instance, a pin used on clothes, hair or headscarf of even on a girldle. Next to this these items also represent a kind of savings-account. The value of the silver used, counts as the property of the owner and is the result of sometimes fierce negotiations over the right bridal dowry. The specific decorations on this jewellery also shows the the region of origin of the bearer; sometimes even to be tied to a particular village. The way a woman will wear her hair, the shape or colour of her dress and which specific jewellery is worn, shows if a lady is married or is eligible for marriage. It also tells if she has children and if the is whealthy or has little means. Most touching, though, of these objects is the double significance a chain, ring or bracelet can have as an amulet or talisman. In different ways the material, colour and form of the jewelry protects its bearer against the evil eye, the jealousy of people or spirits and keeps illness and ill fortune at bay. In her lecture Sigrid van Roode will introduce you to the fascinating variety of significances silver jewelry can have to people.
Left: the choice of colours used on jewelry is not a random one . Middle: Silver amulet-holders from the Yemen, Oman, Iran and Egypt. Right: Egyptian Zar-amulets belonging to a quite specific ritual.
Photos: Collection Sigrid van Roode and photo by Jolanda Bos.
Lecture of Jolanda Bos on the subject of “Face veils from Egypt”.
In her presentation Jolanda Bos will show you images of unique veils from the Wearable Heritage collection. Costumes and veils stand in an age-old tradition in Egypt. Each veil is a unique piece considering its method of production, decoration, finish and treatment of used materials. This lecture, though, presents not just the diversity of face veils from Egypt and her neighbors. All veils shown have been used over a long period of time and they also tell us a very personal story of how they were wrapped and worn. In this way Jolanda writes a “biography of the veil”, using stains and dirt on the veils, which give it a certain “patina”. Also the way how these veils have entered the antiques-trade and which role they played in the current collection will be touched upon. With this “biography of an object” a new way of research into these textiles will be revealed. In short, this lecture gives a truly detailed image of the very character of these veils, offering detailed information on its wearers or of the people who came to own them. Jolanda Bos has for many years made a research of the face veils of West-Asian and North-African origin. Her research results are published on the site www.wearableheritage.com and on her Facebook-page of the same name, as in lectures and publications. Jolanda is an practicing archeologist and also researches costumes, jewelry, beadwork and hairstyles.
Links: Midden: Rechts:
Collection and photo by Jolanda Bos.
The fourth lecture during our fair is presented by Antoine Vanhemelrijk and Caroline vanSanten on the subject of “Tapa’s” ; textiles made of treebark and mainly used in Polynesia.
Left; Beating of a slab of treebark, Managaia, Cook Islands. Middle; Tapa of Makulata Tamala, West-Samoa. Right; Tapa of the sisters Koto and Vitacimi Matemosi, Fiji Islands.
INFORMATION ON BEADS, OLD JEWELRY AND TEXTILES
This part of the site will provide information on the back groud of beads, jewelry and fabrics that are shown and are for sale on the fair in "De Duif".
THE NEVERENDING STORY OF THE BEADS
They are eye-catching, pleasant to touch and often appear to be miniature pieces of art on which experienced craftsmen have worked patiently for hours and sometimes days.
But even more fascinating is their story about the long journey they have made through time and across the globe: in these little mysterious objects the secrets of humanity can be found, its technology, spiritual, religious and cultural context and last but not least the trade routes that developed over the world over the course of thousands of years.
The bead was the first manifestation of human creativity about 40,000 (!) years ago, the second – namely the engraving of mammoth tusks - only developed 5,000 years later.
In the beginning, easily available natural products such as seeds, pips, flowers and feathers were used, which later became bones, teeth and claws. The discovery that the rotary motion could be used to manipulate objects meant an important step forward - man managed to make perforations into hard objects. But still: the manufacturing of just one neolitical quartz bead took on average three days! Approximately 5,000 years ago, by a rare coincidence, a blacksmith discovered that the silica-containing sand in its furnace, contaminated with plant ash and clay, clustered into a solid substance which was the first step in developing glass. A small step for this blacksmith, a huge step in the development of the bead industry!
From left to right: ancient fossils of sea urchin, used as beads; Yatim beads from Indonesia; Ceramic beads from Mali
As humans evolved, the story of the bead became more complex and the route from producer to consumer became longer.
There is a continuous line from the Prehistoric days where the hunter held a claw of a cave bear around his neck in the hope to assimilate the forces of the animal to the more recent times with labourers digging the raw material, transporting it, to the artisans working it and to the craftsman who made the final product. Where merchands came in to trade the beads before it in the end reached its final owner.
From left to right: Eye beads from the Middle East; Faience beads from Afghanistan; beads from Murano
Although beads are known mainly in their role as parts of jewelry and necklaces, this was of secondary importance in its long history, since very different values were assigned.
Beads played a major role as a spiritual object: for various ethnic groups protection, strength, fertility and prosperity were dependent on the possession of certain beads. Also, beads showed someone's social position, marital status and possessions, while other peoples used strings of beads as messenger, by stringing beads in a particular order. But probably the most important feature of the bead was that of means of payment, a function beads fulfilled from the early beginning to around 1930. Because of their long history, these small perforated objects have gained a special intrinsic value.
From left to right: Chevrons from Murano, circa 1860; Murano beads, about 1880; contemporary 'recycled glass' beads from Ghana
Pleasant to see and touch, durable, available in an endless variety and affordable: they are top collectibles - and you can wear them as well.